How to Auto Painting, Bodywork,Tucson,Arizona,Expert color
matching,Fiber glass repair,custom paint,Graphics,metal
fabrication all performed by Armand Dunk
matching,Fiber glass repair,custom paint,Graphics,metal
fabrication all performed by Armand Dunk
How to: Bodywork
Get at the damage from
behind, and push it back
into place.
behind, and push it back
into place.
Here is the damage that
needs to be repaired.
needs to be repaired.
Using a grinder with a 24 grit grinding pad or a variable
speed sander / polisher remove all the paint from the
damaged area before you begin straighting the metal.
speed sander / polisher remove all the paint from the
damaged area before you begin straighting the metal.
Tap down(Fig. 5) the high spots or the crowns of the
damage, much of the dent will come out just by doing
this,also use a hammer and dolly to straighten the
metal(Fig. 6) and remove any body pieces that interferes
with the metal repair.
damage, much of the dent will come out just by doing
this,also use a hammer and dolly to straighten the
metal(Fig. 6) and remove any body pieces that interferes
with the metal repair.
A small rip in the metal was found. Once you
have straightened the metal you can weld the
rip together using a mig welder.
have straightened the metal you can weld the
rip together using a mig welder.
Apply a skim coat of body filler to the entire damaged area,(Fig. 9) it may look like a lot of filler ,but I assure you its not,
especially if the metal work has been properly straighten. (Fig.10) Next using a sanding board with 40 grit file board
paper start sanding until the body filler is straight, check your work continually by gliding your hand over the repair area
and finding high and low spots. Switch to 80 grit file board and start cleaning up the deep scratches left by the 40 grit
paper, and always continually gliding your hand over the area making sure everything is straight. If you find a high spot
knock it down with a sanding block using 80 grit. Now switch to 180 grit using a sanding block and file board same
process as before only you are using a finer grit paper. (Fig. 11) Bodywork finished, now we prepare for the primer. 1st
(Fig. 12) you need to feather edge the paint to bodywork using an orbital sander.( Feather edging is the process by
which scratches left by heavy grit sanding are removed and a smooth transition is made between the good original
paint and the fresh bodywork.
especially if the metal work has been properly straighten. (Fig.10) Next using a sanding board with 40 grit file board
paper start sanding until the body filler is straight, check your work continually by gliding your hand over the repair area
and finding high and low spots. Switch to 80 grit file board and start cleaning up the deep scratches left by the 40 grit
paper, and always continually gliding your hand over the area making sure everything is straight. If you find a high spot
knock it down with a sanding block using 80 grit. Now switch to 180 grit using a sanding block and file board same
process as before only you are using a finer grit paper. (Fig. 11) Bodywork finished, now we prepare for the primer. 1st
(Fig. 12) you need to feather edge the paint to bodywork using an orbital sander.( Feather edging is the process by
which scratches left by heavy grit sanding are removed and a smooth transition is made between the good original
paint and the fresh bodywork.
This repair job is ready
for paint prep.
for paint prep.
In (Fig.13) we are looking for deep scratches that were
not removed by previous sanding attempts and also
pinholes. Use your existing body filler for this process,
mix body filler with a little more cream hardener to give it
a color difference and squeeze it into the imperfections
(not to much cream hardener or you will over catalyze the
mixture and it will not set up properly.) Once hardened
just removed the blue layer with as sanding block using
80 grit as in Fig.13 and Fig.14. Be careful at this stage
and not disturb the lower layer of body filler. There other
products for this process such as Evercoats polyester
glazing putty, but by using my example it's more
economical and body filler is already on hand.
not removed by previous sanding attempts and also
pinholes. Use your existing body filler for this process,
mix body filler with a little more cream hardener to give it
a color difference and squeeze it into the imperfections
(not to much cream hardener or you will over catalyze the
mixture and it will not set up properly.) Once hardened
just removed the blue layer with as sanding block using
80 grit as in Fig.13 and Fig.14. Be careful at this stage
and not disturb the lower layer of body filler. There other
products for this process such as Evercoats polyester
glazing putty, but by using my example it's more
economical and body filler is already on hand.
The primer stage: Blow
off all dust and tape off
the area to be primed
also make sure there is
no grease or wax on your
work. Apply 2 medium
coats of a good 2 part
catalyzed primer. This
type of primer is usually
yellow in color.
off all dust and tape off
the area to be primed
also make sure there is
no grease or wax on your
work. Apply 2 medium
coats of a good 2 part
catalyzed primer. This
type of primer is usually
yellow in color.
How to: Spot paint and blend
Prep for paint: (Fig. 1) After the 2 to 3 coats of primer have been applied and dried , spray a guide coat of flat black
paint to the entire area (Fig. 2). The guide coat (Fig. 3) helps you find high and low spots, scratches and imperfections
in the primer coat when wet sanding. Wet sand the primer coat using a rubber sanding block with 3M 350 grit wet or dry
sand paper continually rinsing the work area with water as in (Fig. 4).
paint to the entire area (Fig. 2). The guide coat (Fig. 3) helps you find high and low spots, scratches and imperfections
in the primer coat when wet sanding. Wet sand the primer coat using a rubber sanding block with 3M 350 grit wet or dry
sand paper continually rinsing the work area with water as in (Fig. 4).
Once the guide coat has been removed (Fig. 5) and the work area to be painted is smooth with no
imperfections, it's time for paint. Tape off the area to be painted including the blend area (Fig. 5), have the paint
color matched to the body color, Note: just because the paint is purchased using the factory code # doesn't
mean the color is a match, there are variations of the same color, so it's important to have it color matched to
the car. If you can do it your self, great!!! If not, find someone competent to match colors. Next stage, blow off all
the dust from the car make sure you get into the gaps between body panels and all the small crevices. Wipe
down the entire area with a grease and wax remover let dry then tack rag the entire area to be painted this
removes dust, small particles etc... Do this 2 to 3 times using a clean area of the tack rag each time. Diamont
products are used for this demonstration. 1st coat ( this only applies to color matches) using BC100 clear,
spray the entire area (Fig. 5) with this clear (this step helps prevent spider wed like appearance in the blend
area when finished. Next step is your base color , with 2 blend areas like this project, 1st coat: paint only the
area covered in yellow(Fig. 5 A ) Second coat :cover area (A) once again, but this time paint 3 inches past your
previous stopping point or point (B) Third coat : cover area (A) again going 3 inches past your previous
stopping point or point (C) and fan your spray gun out for the blend. Do not put any base color on (Fig. 5 D)
This is how it should look (Fig. 6) when finished, it will have a dull finish to it. Last stage: clear coat , apply 2 to
3 medium coats of clear to entire work area giving a 10 to 15 minute flash time ( dry time ) between coats
remove paper in about 20 minutes clean off any over spray on the rest of the car and let dry, preferably over
night before handling. Reassemble car and your finished.
imperfections, it's time for paint. Tape off the area to be painted including the blend area (Fig. 5), have the paint
color matched to the body color, Note: just because the paint is purchased using the factory code # doesn't
mean the color is a match, there are variations of the same color, so it's important to have it color matched to
the car. If you can do it your self, great!!! If not, find someone competent to match colors. Next stage, blow off all
the dust from the car make sure you get into the gaps between body panels and all the small crevices. Wipe
down the entire area with a grease and wax remover let dry then tack rag the entire area to be painted this
removes dust, small particles etc... Do this 2 to 3 times using a clean area of the tack rag each time. Diamont
products are used for this demonstration. 1st coat ( this only applies to color matches) using BC100 clear,
spray the entire area (Fig. 5) with this clear (this step helps prevent spider wed like appearance in the blend
area when finished. Next step is your base color , with 2 blend areas like this project, 1st coat: paint only the
area covered in yellow(Fig. 5 A ) Second coat :cover area (A) once again, but this time paint 3 inches past your
previous stopping point or point (B) Third coat : cover area (A) again going 3 inches past your previous
stopping point or point (C) and fan your spray gun out for the blend. Do not put any base color on (Fig. 5 D)
This is how it should look (Fig. 6) when finished, it will have a dull finish to it. Last stage: clear coat , apply 2 to
3 medium coats of clear to entire work area giving a 10 to 15 minute flash time ( dry time ) between coats
remove paper in about 20 minutes clean off any over spray on the rest of the car and let dry, preferably over
night before handling. Reassemble car and your finished.
Here is the before and after pictures of the project . Another fine job well done and a perfect color match.
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